Step 11- Participate in local rituals.

I am having a great time up here. I have a job that is diverse and rewarding. I live with great people. I get to learn all sorts of new stuff about living somewhere so cold. And to make sure I am doing all I can to fit in, I am taking part in local rituals.

As part of the Northerners way of life, the locals look for opportunities to sit outside in well below freezing weather. I hypothesize that this is to ensure they truly appreciate the somewhat warmer temperatures inside. Thousands of people will gather to sit on metal benches, wrapped in parkas and blankets, to participate in drinking Tim Horton's boxed coffee and watching a rubber puck being shot over ice. And when a McMurray native asked if I would care to participate in this ritual, I, of course, said yes. Who passes up an opportunity to sit in subzero temperature for 3 hours?!? And hey, the ticket was free...

This is at the Junior AA Mens Hockey tournament (or some other combination of words). There were almost 6000 people there! It is the first time this tournament has ever been held outside- a fact that EVERY announcer had to yell through the microphone. “We are making history!!!” The game night was a balmy -12. Tiffany and I arrived an hour early to get good seats, put our cushions down, and get riled up for the McMurray Oil Barons. The snowed stopped just long enough to watch the game. So here it is.

Getting settled:

Pre-game Zamboni:

Waiting for the game to start with a giant foamy finger, a digital camera, and Tiffany, who came up with a ticket for me:

The stage with live entertainment! That's how you know it's a REAL sporting event:

The game. I started out cheering for the other team, the Drayton Valley Thunder, till people started actually turning around and sneering at me. When the Thunder got a goal, half the crowd would boo:

My dog sledding outfit. Some people were wearing jeans and windbreakers! I was nice and warm with my blanket and down filled layers. I believe it is best to be prepared to compete in the Ididarod at all times. During the game, a cycle of "the wave" went around no less than 10 times. I think people were doing it to get moving and warm up. During intermissions, everyone stands up and walks on the spot to get the blood back into the toes:

Tiffany getting cold (bet you wish you did the wave now...):

The bus ride back tot he parking lots:

My first outdoor hockey game. Awesome.

Step 10- Shop elsewhere.

Picture this- you are trapped in a modern day wasteland. All that you can see are tiled floors and chain stores. You scramble to find an exit but are continually sucked back in by the sale racks. It's terrifying, it's foreign, it's shopping ANYWHERE but Fort Mac.

I do not like shopping for clothes. It is one of my least favorite things. But when the mercury drops to -25 and all you own are cotton sweaters, the experience of shopping becomes more of a necessity of survival than anything else. I had to get real clothes. Clothes made of wool and fleece and poly pro. It was time to shop big or go home.

It is hard to go shopping here in Fort because of the limited access. In October I went to the Mark's Work Wear House to buy wool socks and they didn't have any. The most recent shipment just hadn't come in. And that was it- there was no other place to go to buy good wool socks. Today I want to the store to buy a sewing pattern for some new pants, only to discover that the WalMart doesn't sell patterns here. In fact, NO ONE DOES. You can't purchase them in Fort. You just cannot get them! Every once in a while you run into a road block like that which reminds you that you live in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE.

Now, I know what you are thinking. “Kate, stop exagerating, we know you have a Zellers- how bad could it be?” You are partially right. We here in Fort are blessed with a Zellers, Walmart, and a Superstore in which to buy your clothes. We even have our own take on up-scale shopping: Suzy Shier. Here, take a look at the shoe rack at the local Suzy Shier:

And even groceries can get sparse. Smart people shop at the Superstore on Friday because the fresh stock comes in on Thursday nights. Here is the beef counter on a Tuesday, 3 days away from being restocked:

Note the LACK OF BEEF. Knowing that my options are limited and I am running out of time to buy warm clothes, I made the most of the week of meetings I just attended between Toronto and Edmonton. I got to see a bunch of friends in each city, and made each of them struggle with me through the arduous task that is shopping. But first, a picture of my airport dinners. Nothing like poutine and Battlestar Galactica to get you through your 2 hour delay:

Tanya met up with me in Toronto. She is my shopping guru. She is the only person I know who understands that I find shopping really personally challenging, and she times herself accordingly. Here we are enjoying the ONE photo we got together while in Toronto. Note the new hat she encouraged me to buy:

In Edmonton, I left the conference early both days to hit up the malls with my friend Brittany. We put in a good 3 hours on the first day, and then another 3 the following day at West Edmonton Mall. This was, perhaps, my most productive shopping. More sweaters, sports wear, and a bikini (it was on sale!). Here we are taking a break at West Ed:

And this is the teddy bear I ALMOST bought at Winners. Unfortunately, it didn't quite fit into my carry on luggage. But hey, check out the bag- I actually bought something! This is a new personal high for me!

Things are getting cold enough that I have to wear snow pants and boots when I drive out of town- that way, if I skid off the road and it takes a while for someone to find my unconscious body, I will last more than 15 minutes without heat. It is regularly -20. It doesn't seem bad when you have all your layers. The snow drifts in waves across the roads. And the moon is so bright and clear in the sky. It is actually quite beautiful.

Ha! As if Fort Mac looks like this. It is so Edmonton. I would have posted pictures of all my beautiful sweaters, but I really didn't think that would be of universal interest...

Step 9- Gather provisions.

25 and still alive! Who would have imagined? With an affinity towards guns, motorcycles, and climbing things, I was uncertain I would make it this long. And to celebrate the occasion, I got to go into the woods and do just what I wanted: go of road, play with guns, and laugh with family. And hey, putting delicious, premium quality meat on the table certainly doesn't hurt. It was Tara's birthday too! Double the celebration! (I have no idea what my hand is doing, or what that hat is about. Let's just go with it.)

For the last 2 weeks I have been living in camp outside of Kelowna. It is hunting season and I got a moose draw in the region with my Uncle Mike. The trip started with a 17 hour non-stop drive to Kelowna. The only time I put on the brake, apart from gassing up, was where the mountains and sun were so beautiful I had to take it in.

Now, when I say camp, what I should say is 'the settlement,' because camp is more than a tent. Camp was made up of two log framed tent houses and three trailers. There were 12 of us there, including 4 children under the age of 5. And then there was the fire pit. The fire pit is to the camp what the television is to the living room. We actually even spent time spreading wood chips on the path some of them cleared through the bush to get to 'our' meadow. Here is what half the camp looked like:

Most all daylight hours were spent driving the back roads hunting. And here is what I got!

This is my first kill. Sure I have popped a few grouse, but this is my first animal on the table. My dad spotted it and I shot it. It took an hour to track and four to pack out of the woods. I 'whacked' it on the first day of the hunt. The meat is fantastic. I made some up last night and it tastes great! I now have 250lbs of antibiotic, growth hormone free super lean meat in the freezer. I won't have to purchase meat till well into next hunting season. I have ground, stewing meat, sirloin tip steaks, roasts, and even heart! We all celebrated that night.

The next day was just as exciting, though, as Mike's grandson almost succeeded in chopping Mike's finger off with an ax. I took him down to the hospital and they were able to close it up and reset the bone. And here is the kicker; because of my job, I keep condoms in my purse for when I meet up with commercial sex workers. It just so happens that a condom is about the best cover you can get for a finger bandage. We were all too willing to put one on Mike's finger for the rest of the week. Sexual health education comes to the rescue again!

Note the black condom- chocolate flavored.

Tara whacked a sweet mule deer right in the skull, cracking the head bone and flipping it right over on it's back. And Brooke shot her cow moose, a tender immature one, right in the jugular! It was a fantastic shot! Through the trees and everything. We are some serious hunters. I wish I had the photos of all of us in front of our skinned and hanging meat- it was awesome.

As it turns out, only the women got meat this trip. And that's what this trip was about- getting all of us ladies out into the woods and comfortable with the whole hunting process. My cousin Hailey was elbow deep in moose guts when she field dressed Brooke's moose. And having the kids there was a treat- it is amazing how much fun kids make for themselves when they are away from everything! That goes for all of us- somebody was up to something just about all the time. We all just love gettin' er done.

I am off in Toronto now for a bit then Edmonton for more meetings. By the end of the month I will have spent a total of 9 days in Fort! Just as well; starting December, I won't drive on the highway out of here. This was one great way to kick off the long season.

Step 8. Winterize. Or at least try.

Friday: 18 degrees.

Sunday: 10 degrees.

Monday: 7 degrees.

Thursday: 4 degrees.

Saturday: 0 degrees.

Tuesday: -3 degrees.

And so it begins. Hark, the long, long winter of our discontent.

It is hard to take pictures of the temperature. How do I show you the dry, crisp air? How do I convey the new wonders of having to scrape ice from my window? Of having to run the car for 10 minutes before driving? Of playing outdoor soccer in 0 degrees in a t-shirt, shorts, and neoprene leggings? Well, granted, I could have taken a picture of that last one. Rather, though, I have an amazing picture of they mythical ice buffalo, harbinger of winter. I captured this elusive beast on film outside of the local college, a few DAYS after a banquet:

That's right- days. The beasts local habitat is now cold enough for the ice beast. Even though we have yet to have a covering of it, the snow is starting up in earnest, coming out to give a sprinkle every few days. This picture doesn't quite capture the blizzard like conditions, but it's more snow then you'll be seeing in Vic any time soon. My hands are getting all cracked and dry from being outside in this weather.

Even though we have yet to have a covering of it, the snow is starting up in earnest, coming out to give a sprinkle every few days. This picture doesn't quite capture the blizzard like conditions, but it's more snow then you'll be seeing in Vic any time soon. My hands are getting all cracked and dry from being outside in this weather.

Uncertain of how my truck will hold up in the weather, I have been trying to make sure that the both of us are ready for whatever is coming. I decided to try taking the bus so I was familiar with the service in case the roads were too scary for me one day. Taking the bus was fine. But, because I'm an idiot, didn't think that showering before I headed out into -2 degree weather was a bad idea. My hair froze into little brown icicles while I stood on the side of the road, completely unprotected from the wind.

And that was just -2! Wait till is is -40! Yesterday was my first day of actually wondering how I plan on lasting 6 months of snow; I sang Christmas carols to myself till I felt better. I took my truck in to have winter fluids put in, but they didn't have the shop time they thought they would, so I drove home dejected. I was supposed to have my automatic start put in this week, but that fell through too.

I am trying to winterize myself, too. In the last week I have bought all kinds of winter stuff. I got a windshield scraper, fleece gloves, and 5 pairs of wool socks! And check out this sweet ninja balaclava, which I did NOT buy:

This whole post was going to be about getting my vehicle done, and that did not happen. And I failed to take any pictures of the many many social things I did recently, like friends over for a movie, a great local research conference, outdoor soccer. But hey, here is one of the Halloween Party for women I went to. Notice that I did not carve a pumpkin- I don't agree with pumpkin murder, with creeping into the pumpkin's home and taking it's life and then pulling out it's guts and cutting it up. That, and I didn't want to get my hands cold.

So yeah, this blog is a bit hit and miss. Sometimes you get to see dead animals, other time nothing in my week goes according to plan. So there. I am headed out of town for 2 weeks now, to go hunting in BC. I'll post you later!

Step 7- Survey Terrain, preferably with guns.

So, if we are good friends, or just distant friends, or acquaintances who have met on the bus, chances are that you know I like shooting guns. I enjoy shooting at targets, and even occasionally at things with legs. Moving to Alberta had the major perk of being the most pro-gun province in the country. I knew that I could have guns here and not have to worry about what my friends would think- assuming they weren't all too scared of me on the bus to become my friend in the first place. My dad came up to visit last weekend and we took some time exploring the back roads and putting meat on the table. Here is man in his natural element:

While we were out, my dad was hunting for deer, while I was simultaneously hunting for grouse. I got a few too! We each popped 2 of them. Here is what was left of that little bird once all the dirty work was done:

I can't make head nor tales of it! That poor little bird never saw it coming. And if it did, it should have run away. The final result- two little grouse breasts, now frozen. Liz is going to teach me to bake them with bacon and garlic. Yum!

The woods out here are really beautiful. The landscape is very different from BC. I kept wanting to get up a mountain to look around, but there just aren't any. It is all pretty flat! It can look quite barren with all the naked trees. And I love that you can see entire fluffy white clouds. I hope you enjoy the pictures because I am quite certain my dad lost a few more hairs while observing my picture-taking-while-driving technique.

While Dad and I were out, we drove down to a little town called Conklin and ate in the only restaurant. I was the only woman there! The next day we drove north on the winter roads up to where the ice road begins later in the season. What a crazy place to live. We only got stuck in a bog once, at which point Dad had to push and I got an impressive coat of mud on my four wheeled beast. Washing it in 4 degrees, though, was a little too cool for school.

Check the sweet pipeline sign, up in the middle of nowhere!

This week at work: has been really good. I am learning to leave my work at the office. I got my one month review, which consisted of comments like “awesome” and “really valuable.” I also had a meeting in Edmonton, and the commute was crazy. You fly in, first thing in the morning, then race out to get a cab and get back to fly home for 7pm. That said, I did feel pretty cool flying in for a meeting. I almost sound important! I started up our Community Kitchen program too, ala West Abbotsford Mennonite Church, and that is going to start next week.

Step 6- Celebrate the Season

There's not always a ton to celebrate around here. But fall has come and the days are shorter and the sunsets are beautiful. But here is what this town is celebrating!!

Garrrr!! Seeing the sands is so strange. It is one of the most powerful landscapes I have experienced. It is mechanical and completely inhuman. The enormous processing plants are surrounded by acres and acres of grey, dead soil. The first time I saw it, I was speechless. It is even more powerful when you see it in the evening with the lights on. Sometimes the smokestacks are lit to burn off fumes, making it even more of a show.

But seriously, on to what this post is about. Fall is well underway. The mercury is beginning to fall. The days are getting shorter. And rather than wait for Christmas to decorate, most of the neighbourhood is getting into the holidays early. It is sick!

Really, though, most households really get in to Halloween. The decorations went up at the beginning of the month. I get it too. By Christmas, the snow will be so high that decorations will be hard to see. Everyone is taking advantage of the clear ground to set up homage to the holiday. You know those inflatable Christmas decorations? They have those for Halloween too, apparently. This is just a small sampling.

And finally, something nice to have a look at.

This week at work: Tiring. I have to learn to take my breaks. I am organizing some big events and writing grants and other stuff like that. When you care a lot about your work, it is easy to take it home and that makes it exhausting! I am learning not to put a lot of pressure on myself for completing things immediately. So even though it's tiring, it's good! We also moved our offices around, so I now have a dedicated workspace. And one of my favorite clients, who I have know since I started, was just moved into his own place! I am so happy for him. Last weekend my friend Brittany came up from Edmonton, and this weekend my Dad is coming. I managed to get invited to two Thanksgiving dinners and am blessed with lots of fun friends!

Step 5- Get Some Wheels!

When I first got into town I had no vehicle. If it would have been possible to live here and do my job without a car, I would have found a way. I bicycle commuted in Abbotsford- in snow! The highway that connects the burbs to the town is too dangerous for a bike. The traffic is so thick and people get very aggressive. It was okay, though, because Liz works a block away from me. I just carpooled with her. On days when I needed a vehicle to drive into town on my own, the Cheethams lent me their minivan.

Now here is the challenge with this post. I believe in two somewhat opposing guidelines: don't look a gift horse in the mouth, and never let the facts get in the way of a good story. You see, the Cheethams lent me the vehicle and asked for nothing back. All I had to do was pay for my own gas. And even then, Gary took the van out and filled the tank for me when I was low. I don't want to complain. On the other hand, if the Cheethams had wanted to get rid of me, they couldn't have found a better way.

The electrical in the van was loose, so that the power shut off from time to town. The entire car would just shut down. This could happen at any time- at stop signs, or even on the highway. I would then throw it into park, shut it off, and start it again. On the highway the engine would just turn itself over and start up again, no problem, except you would loose power steering and brakes for a few seconds. It sure kept driving exciting!

Now, though, I have my own car! I have a 2005 Chevy Blazer. Here she is:

My Grampa game me his truck over the summer and I have just assumed custody. I spent Monday and Tuesday driving this beautiful beast over the Rockies and back up here.

Here are the top 5 reasons that my truck is so great:

5. It holds a great deal of stuff. When I fold the rear seats forward, there is enough space for me to lie down! Yeah, diagonally, but still, this is not your sisters hatchback.

4. It is a 4X4! My Grampa and I spent some really good hunting trips in this truck. He made a point of teaching me how to drive in the snow, on ice, and how to use the 4X4 to get over logs and lumps on decommissioned roads. That is important, considering the state of the roads around here.

3. The truck has some pretty sweet features. For example, the music automatically turns up or down depending on how hard (i.e. loud) the engine is running. Another sweet feature is that it is a very similar colour to the dirt that is in the air here. That means less washing!

2. It smells faintly of gun slick and black powder. Two of my favorite smells.

1. It is a gift from my Grampa! We spent a lot of time in this truck. It is familiar. It has been a large part of our time together. He wanted me to be able to go and do the things we did together, like hunting and fishing and shooting. This is the picture of me and truck that Grampa took on one of our hunting trips.

I know it is weird, but I pet my truck yesterday. It just feels so close to my heart. It is my new baby.

Work this week: I taught another high school class today, and it went really really well! I had a great time. I just love what I am doing.

On the office end of the work, a client was killed over the weekend. She was sleeping in a dumpster and the truck came. She was crushed to death. City officials spent the last few days searching the dump for her body, and found it yesterday. I am somewhat removed and so it has become my job to set up the memorial. Because of the nature of the death, we will not be able to observe the traditional First Nations three days for the spirit to leave the body. It's a really downer story, but that is what is going on here. Regardless, I still love me job.